Steve and Jen's Royals In Rajasthan Tour

 

What makes for your Adventure on a motorcycle?

Is it rugged, almost impassable mountain ranges with hills almost too steep to climb, or rivers with crossings so deep the fear is the bike under you might get washed away in the current?

Maybe your ADV is something less technical, a gravel road in the outback, or simply a land far enough away where you can lose yourself in someone else’s backyard. In my book, just about every ride is an adventure.

Sometimes the ride is the adventure, other times it is the destination. Recently, Jen and I discovered a world full of temples, palaces, and forts. A land with stories of Gods on motorcycles, and ancient battles with elephants. A destination of desert sands, sweeping along with a timelessness that defies our modern take on the world. We discovered our adventure in Rajasthan, India.

Mrs Adventure Moto and I arrived in India, late on a Friday evening, in early February, on a flight to New Delhi. Now, the greater metropolitan area of Delhi has a population well exceeding that of Australia. That’s right, at last count it was over 33,000,000 living souls. We couldn’t wait to get out of Dodge. It was winter, cold, foggy, and we had a four-hour drive, straight off the plane to get to Agra. We had a driver waiting for us, courtesy of the guys at Roaming Horizons, our tour operators and hosts for the next couple of weeks.

It had been 40 years since my last visit to India as a young explorer and back-packer. This seemed a lifetime ago, back in the 1980’s. Last century. So being able to walk out of the airport into a waiting sedan was somewhat of a relief. No hustling for a taxi or train to catch. We planned to get to Agra so we could see the Taj Mahal and the Red Fort on our way down to meet the ride group in Jaipur where our tour with Roaming Horizons and their in-India operators Good Road Adventures would begin.

Leaving Delhi, we were instantly reminded just how chaotic a country with close to 1.4 billion inhabitants can be. Traffic, even in the early hours was scary for the uninitiated. It was a wild drive along a smog-covered freeway. We instinctively trusted our driver Rabindra and quickly picked up on the rhythm to the chaos around us. It was a good thing to understand as we would be riding amongst it within a few days.

An early start the following morning, with a guide on board to assist us with our visit to the mighty Taj Mahal... one of the “NEW” Seven Wonders of the World... How new? Well, only built around four centuries ago, so still classic architecture by anyone’s level of understanding.

The winter smog and smoke of burning cow dung (used to heat homes and fire stoves) were absent on our early morning visit due to the weather Gods looking over us. We were lucky and had a clear vision of the majestic monument. Built from all white marble, sourced from Rajasthan. It was commissioned in 1631 by the then Mughal emperor, Shah Jahan, in loving memory of his favourite wife. A few hours roaming the 17 Hectare site was a great start to any Indian adventure.

In the late afternoon, we also visited the Agra Fort, or the RED Fort as it is more commonly known due to its construction out of red sandstone. This building pre-dates the Taj by around 100 years. It was started by Shah Jahan’s grandpa, Emperor Akbar in the mid-1500s, and once had a moat filled with crocodiles.

 

AGRA – JAIPUR

Our trusty driver picked us up at our hotel around 8:00am. It was a 4-5 hour drive from Agra to Jaipur. We were looking forward to meeting the rest of the tour group, as well as our local ride leader for our two-week jaunt around Rajasthan.

Now for history’s sake and perspective, Rajasthan has some old memories for me. I had spent a few months in India and in particular bumming my way around Rajasthan. I have ridden camels across the Thar desert outside of Jaisalmer, along the Pakistan border. I have been drunk on Indian Saffron whiskey while riding on the roof of a bus and hitching rides on the back of lorries, all while travelling from one desert city to another. Back then I was camping and staying in dirty hostels. This time around, we would be on two wheels. Staying in luxury “Haveli’s”, and centuries-old mansions, or converted palaces and forts once inhabited by Maharaja’s and the Royals of Rajasthan. What a change, what an ADVENTURE!

 

 

DAYS 1 & 2 - JAIPUR

In Jaipur, we stayed in the Royal Heritage Haveli, a 250-year-old boutique hotel, presently owned and run by the Jaipur Royals. Originally converted into a hunting lodge, the property has entertained state guests, including Queen Mary of England back in 1911. Our excitement grew as we were treated like Riding Royals. A special treat was our first evening in Jaipur, with dinner at one of the world's best hotels, “Rambagh Palace”, the Jewel of Jaipur.

Jaipur is known as the pink city, as much of the city was painted in a soft pink hue before a visit by H.R.H King Edward VII. Attractions include the Hawa Mahal (Palace of the Winds) & City Palace, with its five-story lattice-work screens, which allowed the royal ladies and courtesans to view parades and life below on the streets.

However, no visit to Jaipur is complete without a trip out to the Amber Fort. Before the city of Jaipur was founded in the plains below the outlying mountains, Amber Fort was the seat of the Kachhawa Rajput clan for seven hundred years from around 967AD. The halls, ceilings and walls of the inner palace were once embedded with precious stones and jewels. We rode Elephants from the lakeside courtyard to the palace proper, high on the mountains overlooking the kingdom below. Put me back on my bike, please.

 

DAY 3 - RIDING JAIPUR TO MANDAWA

Our first day on the bikes was filled with trepidation and excitement. Jen and I were lucky enough to ride two of the new Royal Enfield Himalayan 450 motorcycles, while our friends travelling with us were handed keys to the older 411 Himalayans. SCORE!

Our briefing for the two weeks ahead was delivered by Veeru Rathore (The Major) and his fixer K.P. from Good Road Adventure, who work closely with Roaming Horizons in Rajasthan. Good Road Adventure supplies the bikes and local talent, including a mechanic who rode in the support bus for the entire trip.

Each Roaming Horizons Tour has a minivan in tow, which carries the rider's bulk luggage, also allowing any rider who is weary or simply needs time off the bike, to take a break. In this case, either K.P. or Nihal the mechanic would take over the handlebars and allow the customer to ride in the bus. Having the minivan gave us the chance to drive to the occasional lunch, dinner or temple without having to gear up and ride the bikes.

On this tour, we had Ashish, visiting from Kenya, taking the trip as a passenger on the bus, or occasionally jumping behind a willing rider when it took his fancy, or the road conditions allowed. Riding with Jen and myself, were Steve “Catman” from Brisbane, as well as Guru and Prem from Roaming Horizons, Sanjay out of Melbourne, and finally Aseem from Delhi.

We mounted the bikes, and The Major took us gently out of Jaipur, allowing the group to find their wheels. Within minutes we were wondering how to handle the traffic, with a general fear of getting lost or being taken out by a wayward cow, scooter or madman driving a Mahindra tractor with all the frillings. The Tractors in Rajasthan seem to be every bad boy’s dream ride. Often with streamers, mirrors and a boom box on full volume, blaring out Indian rock music. We soon got in the groove and were appreciative of our ride leader, wearing a Hi-Viz vest so we could spot him in the crowds.

The first day was only 250kms of riding, but even so, it felt like a long one. After stopping by Raiwasa Lake, an 11 square km dry lake bed located near the 1200-year-old Jeen Mata Temple and the Harshnath Hills, we were on our way to Mandawa. Riding the dry lakebed allowed us to test the new Royal Enfields in the sand and on the dirt. We had a film crew following the ride, and they wanted to get a little off-road action happening. I am sure they were hoping at least one of the riders would spectacularly crash. Sorry to disappoint fellas.

Our next break was the View Point Infinity, which is located at the highest point of the Aravalli hills. A series of hairpin turns greet the riders before and after the viewpoint. Once again I was impressed at just how stable and smooth the new 450’s were. It was a great way for Jen and myself to familiarise ourselves with the Himalayan Adventure bikes. The landscape was constantly changing, with small village settlements and jungle roads, often with gangs of Grey Langur monkeys gathering at the most notorious bends, as if cheering us on as we rode on by.

Mandawa has always been a prosperous Rajput trading town, located along the ancient Silk Road. We were lucky enough to stay in a well-preserved Haveli mansion which had been converted to host tourists and travellers on their journey. Once again, we appreciated the local knowledge of our tour operators and ride leaders for finding such elegant and magnificent accommodations for our first night out on the bikes.

 

Day 4 - MADAWA TO GAJNER, BIKANER

Along the roads from Madawa on our way to Bikaner, we were confronted with the variety of transport modes found all over Rajasthan. It was common to see donkeys loaded up with household goods, produce, and even the odd goat or family dog. Camels loped along, towing big wheeled carts designed for traversing sand dunes and desert wadis. Animals mixed with lorries, tractors and huge trailers. These amazing tractor trailers with giant billowing woven fabric backs, twice the width and height of the vehicles, were loaded to the gunnels with grain, hay, or animal feed. The trailers and lorries threatened to take up two lanes of road wherever you came upon them.

Towards the end of our second day of riding highways and byways, before finding our digs at the Gajner Palace, yes... PALACE! We visited the famous Rat temple. The Karni Mata Temple, or Rat Temple, is just outside of Bikaner in Deshnoke. The temple was built to commemorate Karni Mata’s battle with Yama, the god of death, where she brought her beloved stepson back to life. Karni Mata was considered to be a living goddess of Power and Victory.

The temple is full of friendly rats. Each rat is supposedly a relative of Karni Mata, who is fed, protected and looked after in the temple complex by her followers. During the bi-annual Navratri festival, held over nine days, millions of worshipers visit the temple leaving offerings for the Karni Mata’s furry relatives. No wonder they are happy and content scurrying around and mixing with the locals and visitors alike. Best-fed rats in all of India.

Arriving at the Gajner Palace, located just outside of Bikaner, we were met like dignitaries on our Royal Enfields. A full fanfare of camels, musicians, drums and cocktails. Our rooms overlooked the impressive lake. The Gajner truly is an Oasis in the Thar Desert. Built by Maharaja, Sir Ganga Singh of Bikaner, the majestic palace boasts distinctive guest rooms, private restaurants, terraces and balconies, stretching over 6000 acres of privately owned land.

Dinner and lunch each day usually consisted of a variety of hot and spicy curries. Now, if you can’t handle a curry, then I strongly suggest you take India off your bucket list for adventure riding. You will not find a Starbucks on any corner. However, I did see the Golden Arches outside of Delhi.

 

 

DAY 5 – GAJNER PALACE TO MOHANGARH FORT JAISALMER

You say Palace, I say Fort. Both a truly luxurious experience on any tour of majestic Rajasthan.

The ride for the day was cruising highways and vistas, with easy stops at temples and a casual lunch at a roadside resort. We were heading deeper into Rajasthan, riding parallel to the Pakistani border, only a few kilometres as the crow flies. Our tour guide, the Major, implored us to turn off our phones in certain border control areas. Apparently, this was army protocol.

Mohangarh Fort is a young fort. In fact, it is the last fort built in India. Completed in 1944 by His Highness Maharawal of Jaisalmer, for his younger son, and as a fort away from the home palace. Sort of like a grand weekender. We were welcome guests for the night and enjoyed the sunset from the rooftop. With sixteen luxurious rooms, a massive courtyard and swimming pool, we felt like we were on the set of a classic movie.

 

DAY 6 – MOHANGARTH FORT TO THE BORDI

Each day we would find our bikes neatly lined up, chains oiled, ready to ride. Riding out in procession, usually with Jen and myself behind Sanjay, who was fairly new to riding, tucked in behind The Major who was taking the lead. At least most of the group behind Jen and myself could speak the lingo, well, kind of. India has over eight official languages, however, with over 200 dialects, it must get confusing, even for the locals. So our plan was to follow the leader so we limited our chance of getting lost.

Veeru Major, wanted to take us to Jaisalmer via the Lodurva Jain Temple. The temple was rebuilt from ruins over three centuries ago and has over a thousand snakes carved in the shape of a huge hood behind the idol, like a giant halo. Live snakes are rumoured to come out each night to partake in the offerings left by worshippers. The temple also houses “Kalpavriksha” a divine wishing tree. We all wished for safe travels and untold wealth and good fortune to be bestowed upon us.

JAISALMER FORT is a living, breathing city. Also a big tourist destination situated in the heart of the Thar Desert. The fortress city rises out of the surrounding desert throwing the desert sun’s rays back to anyone gazing upon its walls. Nicknamed “Sonar Quila” or Golden Fort, it was built in 1156 AD by Rawai Jaisal, a Rajput ruler back in the day. The Fort served as a strategic outpost along the camel trade routes that connected India with Central Asia. Efforts are underway to preserve and protect this unique UNESCO World Heritage site, which is being heavily impacted by tourism, and environmental degradation.

We enjoyed a lunch break on the shores of Gadisar Lake, situated on the outskirts of Jaisalmer city. Years ago, when I spent time in Jaisalmer, a massive canal system was being built. This canal is now full and brings much-needed water to allow irrigation for agriculture in the city. Gadisar, a manmade reservoir, is surrounded by temples and stone embankments, making it a place where the populace likes to hang, to get some respite from desert life. We watched as an old wallah washed himself and his clothes at the lake's edge. Just down from where a cow's carcass floated in the water.

The BORDI is a luxury desert camp, one of a handful scattered around the sand dunes in the Thar Desert. I remember as a young adventurer, camping in amongst the dunes and pitching my own tent as we crossed the mighty Thar by camel. The Bordi, however, was glamping at its absolute best, offering an immersive experience in the desert landscape.

With all the amenities you would expect in any five-star resort or hotel, but with sand under your feet. While some of the group enjoyed a camel safari through the dunes, watching the sunset before dinner. We enjoyed outstanding Rajasthani cuisine, prepared by skilled chefs, gathering around the fire pit under the stars while being entertained by traditional dancers and musicians.

 

DAY 7 & 8 – BORDI TO PAL GARH JODHPUR

The crew wanted to see some sand riding on the Royal Enfields. Especially they wanted the newer 450’s put through their paces. However, after experiencing my first and only bout of early morning Delhi Belly, I was not keen to prove myself riding the 450 on the dunes. I told them to catch me on the way out from the Bordi, with five or so kms of sand and gravel, before we would be back on the tarmac... EAT MY DUST! Watch and Learn! Yeah... Nah! But it was fun to see how the Himalayan handled herself in the loose stuff. Still feeling very balanced, an all-round fun bike to ride.

Pal Village is a tiny hamlet located on the outskirts of Jodhpur, where we stayed for the next two nights while exploring the famous Mehrangarh Fort and the Blue City of Jodhpur. Staying in a tasteful stately home with beautiful gardens, grand dining pavilions, enclaves, and courtyards. The hotel, featuring a museum, filled with a collection of weapons, cannons, old cars and artefacts, was a virtual maze of alcoves and rooftop terraces allowing guests to watch the sunset over the surrounding township.

Jodhpur is known as the “Blue City” due to the distinctive blue paint and lime plaster finish on many of the local residences. This is a caste thing, highlighting the Brahmin population, also blue is a cooling colour and is considered a natural method of pest control. We could see the whole city, with a 360-degree birdseye view from the famous Mehrangarh Fort. Perched on a 400-foot high hilltop, the imposing fort dominates the skyline and offers panoramic views all the way to the Maharaja’s palace in the distance.

Construction of the Mehrangarh Fort started in the 1450s by Rao Jodha, the founder of Jodhpur. With the blessings of Karni Mata (Our Lady of the Rat Temple), a local chieftain was buried alive in the foundations of the fort, to ensure its stability and the good fortunes of the kingdom for years to come. To this day, centuries later, this act of selflessness and sacrifice is honoured by the city, with stipends from the Royal Family of Jodhpur still being paid to the chieftain's ancestors.

The Mehrangarh Fort, or “Fort of the Sun” has been expanded and modified over the centuries. You can see battle scars where cannon shots hit the solid 70-foot thick walls and bounced off like buckshot. The Rathore rulers of Marwar were a fierce and efficient warrior clan during their 800-year dynasty. The fort is a magnificent museum and window into its historic past, it has been described by the writer Rudyard Kipling as “The Work of Angels and Giants”.

 

 

DAY 9 & 10– JODHPUR TO UDAIPUR

On the way to Udaipur, our fairly straightforward road adventure was interrupted by a welcome detour to visit the Bullet Baba Temple. Om Singh Ji Rathore, revered as a saint, and known as Om Banna Dham, or the Bullet Baba, is a folk deity whose shrine is situated in the Pali district outside of Jodhpur.

The story of Om Banna’s divine connection with the motorcycle dates back to a fateful day in 1988. While travelling back to his village outside of Chotila, between Jodhpur and Pali, Om Banna had a collision with a tree and died on the spot. The Royal Enfield Bullet, which had ended up in a ditch off to the side of the tree where poor young Om Banna had met his demise, was taken to and locked up in the local police station. The next day, when they opened up the cop shop, the bike was missing. A search went out and the bike was found parked up at the tree where its master had perished the day before.

The police secured the bike a second time, but again the bike found its way back to the tree. Once again, in an effort to stop any shenanigans, the police drained the fuel tank, locked the bike up, and satisfied themselves that the motorcycle could not disappear. Lo and behold, the Bullet mysteriously found its way back to the tree. So instead of scrapping the errant moto, the people of Chotila built a shrine around it and a saint was born.

We celebrated the life and death of Om Banna, lighting a cigarette and pouring whiskey over an Om Banna statue (of course we each had to drink a shot) paying homage to the rider and his Bullet motorcycle. At the shrine, thousands of passers-by stop and pay their respects. The belief is that Om Banna will provide safe travels, and take care of riders on the road.

The Ranakpur Jain Temple was the next stop on our ride to Udaipur. Ahead of us once again were the Aravalli mountain ranges. In the foothills, we were riding through forests of eucalyptus, and patches of rainforest reminiscent of home. However, I was not prepared to be blown away, as we all were, when we disembarked and headed into the 600-year-old temple complex imagined by Dharna Shah, a minister under the ruler Rana Kumbha, back in 1389.

The Jain temple before us took over 100 years to build and honours Adinath, the first Tirthankara according to Jain Cosmology. Not to be missed, is the authentic Jain restaurant located near the entrance gates to the complex. Jain food is less spicy and unadulterated compared to other Indian cuisine. Purely Vegan. Often we would see Jain monks and priestesses, barefoot and dressed in white robes, walking the countryside. Living entirely off the goodwill of others.

One of the most remarkable features of the Ranakpur Jain Temple is the intricately carved marble pillars. Often referred to as the Thousand Pillared Temple, the temple in actual fact has over 1444 carved columns, each as ornate and special as the next one, no two are alike. For Jen and myself, this was one of the highlights of our ride through Rajasthan.

Our ride up and over the Aravalli mountain ranges was full of switchbacks and hairpin turns. In India, taking a hairpin turn is a bit like closing your eyes and hoping for the best. Since everyone uses their horn, I decided to lay off mine, so at least I could hear an oncoming bus, car, or lorry, blaring away, before it came around the bend on the wrong side of the road. More than once, one or two of the riders rode the gutter, hard against the mountain wall, as we navigated the tight and winding roads. The bends were once again lined with packs of monkeys laughing at us as we rode on by. I swear I saw one pack of monkeys giving a pet dog a belly rub.

UDAIPUR, also known as the “City of Lakes” reminded both Jen and myself of Venice. Probably the most picturesque city in all of Rajasthan, it is known for its stunning lakes and palaces, including the famous Jagmandir Island-Lake Palace, featured in the James Bond classic “Octopussy”. The city was founded in 1559 by Maharana Udai Singh II, the ruler of Chittorgarh, and served as the Mewar kingdom's capital.

Udaipur was a breath of fresh air. Well, relatively speaking. We parked our motorcycles in a property on the edge of the lake and walked our way through the maze of streets to our hotel for the next two nights. Tight laneways, filled with galleries and antique shops, restaurants and bars. Many with rooftop terraces overlooking Lake Pichola, with a view to the Udaipur City Palace, imposing on the opposite bank of the lake, and seemingly taking up most of the hillside.

A highlight in Udaipur was a visit to a vintage car museum, located in the Garden Hotel. It is a nod to the wealth, influence, and bygone years of the British Raj. Including vintage Rolls Royce’s, Plymouth, Dodge, Chryslers & Caddies, Mercedes-Benz and a series of wartime Jeeps. Dinner was an outside affair, in a central courtyard surrounded by perfectly restored autos. Another great meal with friends and ride mates as we navigated our way through this magnificent and historic part of India.

 

DAY 11 – UDAIPUR TO CHITTORGARH

A three-hour ride along the base of the Aravalli ranges brought us to Chittorgarh, literally meaning Chittor Fort. One of the largest living forts in India and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Chittorgarh must be one of the most imposing structures in Rajasthan. Thirteen km long with stone battlements and ramparts, it is home to over 7000 residents still living within its grounds. It contains over 65 historic structures, including centuries-old Victory Towers, spread over 280 hectares.

The history of this hilltop fortification dates back over 2000 years. There is a mixture of historical fact, myth, and legend surrounding the fort. Including stories of an eight-month-long siege, the massacre of 30,000 local Hindus by Arab invaders at the base of its walls and a beautiful Rajput Queen (Rani Padmini), who sacrificed herself, committing “Jauhar”, along with 16,000 others.

Either way, the drama, and history, along with buildings carved out of red stone, hundreds, if not thousands of years old, makes you feel small. As we looked out over the ramparts, below were the former battlegrounds of invading armies, with war elephants and tens of thousands of soldiers fighting for a booty worth hundreds of millions in today’s economic value. All for the taking... they just had to climb that Fucking wall!

With the afternoon upon us, we were happy to be back on our bikes, navigating the laneways out of the fort and back down onto the plains. With winding back country roads through farmland, then back on the highway for an afternoon run into Bijapur.

 

DAY 12 – CASTLE BIJAIPUR TO RANTHAMBORE

Back in the day of the British Raj, we may have set off on a tiger hunt to try and bag us a maneater or two. Most likely on the back of an elephant to keep us high and safe. We were headed to TIGER territory. But just for s sneaky peek. Our destination was Ranthambore National Park, one of the handful of Tiger Sanctuaries located in India.

We rode back country lanes and battled a herd of cattle being urged down a freeway on-ramp as we were riding up it. They didn’t seem to care. What was all the fuss about? I love how the cattle and other animals just don’t give a shit! I mean, why would they, they know most everyone worships them, and they are not going to get chopped up for burger patties. The joys of being a cow in a Hindu state.

The Major took us off-road to Mandol Lake. The crew wanted pics of the bikes along the lake and we enjoyed riding dirt tracks and sand, as well as climbing the rock steps and ledges. Jen had the brainchild of creating a “Flash Dance”, or Flash-Ride. For fun we rode along a dirt path, followed by the requisite drone, pulled in abreast... and did the Macarena... Well, our version of it, while sitting on our bikes.  

After a big belly laugh, we rode to lunch, then onto our jungle lodges, home for the next couple of days. Hotel – Bagh Serai.

 

 

DAY 13 & 14 – RANTHAMBORE

Today was a lay day. We were supposed to be on Safari, however, our plans were delayed for tomorrow morning. What to do? I know says Aseem our flamboyant and mischievous friend from New Delhi. We should have a Hindu wedding!

Aseem-Bhai, (Bhai is like calling a friend “brother” in Hindi) is one of those characters. In Jodhpur, he told a store owner where Jen and I were looking at some handicraft, and probable fake antiques, that Jen was an Austrian Billionairess. He claimed that I was her bodyguard and he was her driver. Aseem insisted that although he did not want anything for bringing her to their warehouse, any generosity they would bestow upon him would put them in good stead for a massive dolloping of good Karma. They gave Aseem a nice package of Pashmina shawls when he left. He then handed them out and told us we didn’t drive a hard enough bargain.

Aseem-Bhai’s wife and daughter had joined the group in Ranthambore to meet with us and to take the safari. So with the girls' help, Jen was dressed head to toe in a beautiful red Sari. Meanwhile, the men were bestowed gifts by Aseem, of Indian Pagri (Turban), Angrakha (long shirt), and Dhoti (Pyjama pants). He claims he had these brought in with his family as gifts anyway. But why not put them to good use?

We celebrated with the world's shortest Indian wedding. Normally a group of rituals, held over 3-5 days, Jen and I undertook our second wedding (to each other at least) with Sanskrit vows and the tying of shawls. We danced and laughed and had a ton of fun. That was all before lunch.

After, we changed and headed out in the minivan, to go and find some crocodiles and alligators along the Chambal River. To be honest, while some in the group found spotting big Crocs exciting, the best part of the tour for me was the unexpected.

Driving past a giant open-air chilli market, we could literally see a “sea of red”. On the ground, drying out in the sun were acres of red chillies. The chilli peppers were being hand-sorted by families of children, women carrying babies, and men and women of all generations. They were plucking off the green stalks and sorting the dried chillies into piles.

There was laughter and smiles as we navigated the piles of chillis and tried our hand at sorting. Families and merchants would come from all over the region to buy enough chillies for the year. Considering that the staple of most curries in Rajasthan is made from chilli, garlic, and onion (Garam Masala), a year’s supply might be a wheelbarrow or a truck full.

The following morning was a 4am start so we could drive out to the open-top safari vehicle, which would take the group into the national park to hopefully spot a tiger. It was bitterly cold, we spotted deer, monkeys, and plenty of birdlife, but we were unfortunate not to see a striped jungle cat. Some Masala Chai at the tea house. Back to the hotel for a late breakfast, and a relatively short ride to Jaipur, back to where it started.

JAIPUR – A taste of 5-star luxury awaited us at the Lalit. Even though the hotel really was superb, a high-rise luxury accommodation and resort, Jen and I were almost longing for the rustic charm of the centuries-old converted forts and palaces that the group had been enjoying during most of our tour. Not to leave that stone unturned, Veeru Major, organised another visit to the Amber Fort, to take in the evening Light show. We had the following day to relax and do any last-minute shopping. Also to prepare for our journey home.

Our farewell dinner was held at the Samode Haveli. The Samode is an urban oasis inside the old walled city of Jaipur. There we ran into our Ex-Foreign Minister, and High Commissioner, Alexander Downer. Alex was happy to see a few fellow Aussies and gladly took a picture of the group on Catman’s phone.

Jen and I had an early start the following morning. We would stop by Aseem-Bhai’s haveli and meet his dogs. He has a bar made from old motorcycles and still had a cheeky smile and a mischievous grin. As they say, “The people you take the ride with, make the ride!”. Often, these are the friends you keep for life. Then it was time to head home.

Find out more about The Ultimate Rajasthan Adventure Tour with Roaming Horizons.